Author Archives: ram5400

Saying Goodbye to the Ex-President

Yesterday, N�stor Carlos Kirchner, 60, passed away. The former president of Argentina and the husband to current president Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner, he was as controversial as any leader. But the people who loved him arrived in droves at La Plaza de Mayo say their final goodbyes, waiting in line for hours before being admitted to La Casa Rosada.

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I’m not politically savvy enough to know what this means for Argentina. I went there, though, and saw passionate people shouting Nestor’s name, as well as Peron’s, and chants like, “Nestor, te digo, el pueblo est� contigo,” or the public is with you, Nestor.

Typical of public Argentine gatherings, a few people banged on big bass drums and snares, making heavy beats to accompany people as they shouted. Street vendors also took the opportunity to sell food and refreshments.

Here are some photos of the scene:

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Location: Avenida Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Preparing for Census Day in Argentina

A long line of Argentines at the local Chinese grocery store, baskets in hand loaded with food in preparation for — you’d never have guessed it — National Census Day.

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Tomorrow, nearly everything will be shut down in Argentina, from grocery stores to restaurants to pharmacies to kiosks, and public reunions are prohibited, from sports events to classes to weddings. Only the bare essentials will be running, which includes such services as public transportation and hospitals. This is to allow at least one person in every household to await the arrival of one of 600,000 census workers, who will conduct interviews and fill out a questionnaire of typical census questions that involve age, level of education, marital status, etc.

So with the whole country on hold — gasp! — people need to prepare. And it felt great to be alongside my fellow residents, waiting in line to pay for my groceries, preparing for the national holiday.

On a related note, I finally feel accustomed to measurements in the metric system, at least when it comes to ordering from the deli. The people in line tonight had a good laugh when I ordered 1.5 grams of ham.

Some businesses took today off, too, effectively giving them a mini vacation.

As for me, I’m looking forward to catching up on some homework tomorrow while buckling down with my census day supplies.

P.S. I’ll be back to talking about the Argentine student movement shortly.


Location: Avenida Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Noche de los Lápices

It’s been too long. Needless to say, a lot has happened.

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September 16 — “La Noche de los l�pices.” It’s a massive student march that takes place every year in honor of several high school student activists who were kidnapped, tortured and killed during the dictatorship in 1976 (high school students, mind you).

Because of the student movement occurring at the University of Buenos Aires (UBA) and several high schools across the city, there was a huge turnout this year. Estimates reach 30,000. That’s mostly students but includes any other attendees — leftists, workers, parents — who supported the movement.

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The primary slogan for the night is, “Y los l�pices siguen escribiendo,” or “And the pencils keep on writing.”

I was there and I’ll have to say, seeing the banners for my school, Facultad de Filosof�a y Letras, or FILO, I honestly felt proud. That is, as if I truly identified with the students marching underneath it, like it was an organization I could believe in.

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I’m not one who usually gets proud of things like that. Whether it’s a country like the United States, my hometown high school in Stroudsburg, or even Penn State University — I don’t usually believe in institutions enough to feel that intangible sense of pride. But something about the student activism and the overall character of the student body at FILO makes me honored to say that, even if only for a semester, I’m a student of the Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA).

That said, this night was insane. I want to say that the demonstration was entirely peaceful, but put 30,000 people anywhere in one place for a protest and there are going to be problems. Even so, only vandalism occurred, nothing worse, and no one was tear gassed or anything.

The march ran from Plaza de los Dos Congresos right to La Casa Rosada, where the president is housed.

People broke windows, spray painted and taped pencils, defacing selected buildings, like the Jefatura del Gobierno (more or less Government Headquarters) where they also burned what appeared to be an effigy of Mauricio Macri, the mayor of the city.

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Police lined up to guard La Casa Rosada, complete with riot shields and blockades.

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Of course, since this march happens every year, the police knew what to expect. What left me most surprised was that the government allows this sort of freedom of expression to happen. I’m not sure how this compares to large public gatherings in the States; I’m ashamed to say that I’ve never been to one of the political sort. But I feel that organized protests on this scale would be swiftly shut down. The students here go so far as to block off major roadways. I suppose all the government can do is take these things in stride.

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Other than that, the night was also treated as a bona fide event. Street vendors were selling food and refreshments. Lots of people, like me, had cameras. News crews were there. At least one radio station was playing reggaeton music loudly.

It’s funny — it’s as if protesting is what people here do in their free time. Go out, protest, break a few windows, then go home and get ready for school the next day.

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Of course, that oversimplifies things. And despite the ridiculousness of people treating the night as a business venture, I never felt that the undercurrent of severity was lost. The students were serious about their protest. Each high school and college marched underneath its own banner, and those banners were also united underneath umbrella organizations, like the Federaci�n Universitaria de Buenos Aires (FUBA), comprised of the schools Filosof�a y Letras, Ciencias Sociales, the Insitituto Universitario Nacional del Arte, etc.

So I don’t think it was the safest place in the city at the moment. But I don’t think it was necessarily dangerous.

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My big take-away is that I’m sincerely invested in what the public university stands for here in Buenos Aires. The students at the UBA not only have ideals but hold fast to their principles. And I found myself unexpectedly swept up in the fight for what is truly their education, because they won’t stand to have it any other way.

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Location: Avenida Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Taking over the university

When I went to class yesterday, this is what I found:

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The students of the University of Buenos Aires (UBA) decided on Sept. 7 to occupy the Facultad of Filosof�a y Letras, which means that most classes are canceled and students are now sleeping overnight in the building to make sure authorities don�t close and lock the doors.

Last night, I was one of those students. I’d never occupied a building before and I count it as a valuable part of my cultural experience in Buenos Aires.

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The student occupation of the UBA is part of a broader student movement that includes the occupation of three other university buildings and 24 high schools across the city.

What follows in this entry is only one side of that story, and while biased, it provided me, as an American student, with valuable food for thought.

(**A quick note: In this “occupation,” all chairs are removed from classrooms and the doors are open so the public can walk through it freely. Teachers can even still hold class, albeit it in the open air or in a hallway, which is what my teacher decided to do next week. Police aren’t allowed inside, though there weren’t any present — it was all very peaceful.)

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It is absolutely free — that’s right, free, except for the cost of books, transportation and such — to attend the public university here. And while the buildings of the UBA are old, don’t have running sink water, etc., it’s still one of the most prestigious schools in Latin America. That’s admirable to me, that in the past they fought for a free university, acquired it, and now they want to improve on its conditions.

That said, students are making a direct appeal to the city and national governments for a larger education budget. They’ve apparently taken several measures to get its attention, including letter writing, street protests, etc. The occupation of these buildings, then, isn’t just emotional overreaction or fun and games — it’s seriously a last-ditch effort.

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For the record, I do believe in the UBA’s reputation. The class I take there, “Approximation to a Marxist analysis of culture, art and ideology,” is taught by an excellent teacher, filled with passionate — and very intelligent — students and includes an insane amount of reading every week. And I’ve learned a lot.

To be honest, the quality of the students here — again, only in my experience — has made me question the real quality of education in the states and whether we’re actually reaching people. It’s hard to describe, but every porte�o I’ve met has a certain edge that just isn’t so common in the states.

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A comment earlier on this blog, I think, captures the essence of what I’m saying — a lot of students in the U.S. learn Spanish not because they’re genuinely interested in using it to connect with the culture, but because it’s a marketable skill. I’m generalizing here, but I feel U.S. students also treat education in general more as a commodity for getting ahead than as a tool to be used for the betterment of society. Maybe I just feel more at home with left-wingers. That could be the case, too.

Whatever it might be, this great concern for social issues is something that has Ignacio Gerola, a third-year student studying anthropology, strongly against the city government, headed by Mauricio Macri, which funds the private sector while cutting the budget for public one.

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“[Private education] generates more social inequality,” he said. And rather than teaching students to look for the betterment of society, it teaches them to “function for the corporations.”

My journalism major functions this way — learn how to tell the best story to draw the biggest audience to make the most money for your newspaper. Other journalistic “responsibilities” might enter into the equation, but at its core (at least in my classes so far) the major teaches us to operate within the system and perpetuate it without giving thought to how our role as journalists might be problematic, or how that system might be flawed.

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Maybe this crosses the border into politics and has nothing to do with intercultural understanding. Then again, maybe it has everything to do with why some people abroad just don’t like the U.S.

Anyway, about 500 people, probably more than that, were gathered in front of UBA to vote. They voted on a variety of things, most importantly on whether or not to continue occupation of the school into the night.

Among the UBA’s demands are a student cafeteria, a daycare, more classrooms (due to lack of space, students often sit on the floor), construction on the Sociales building (apparently in bad shape — a large piece of glass fell in its central hall and by dumb luck no one was killed) — and a swift NO to any effort at privatization.

The UBA has a student government comprised of elected students, although the student body makes all of its decisions democratically, leaving the government to head logistics rather than lead the students of its own accord. With more than 15,000 students taking classes there, though, the 500 that attended seems small.

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“The important thing is that these measures bring together more people, that they become involved with politics,” Marco Schirno said in response to this. He’s a second-year student studying anthropology.

 Gerola, who I mentioned above, was confident that most students not in attendance were in agreement

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The majority of students here work, many full time jobs, and I can understand why they wouldn’t come in person to the building, especially if they’re politically wary or not as passionate as the bunch in the video above.

Now I can’t say for sure, but running water, soap and paper towels in the bathrooms here would be nice — I’m sure every student can agree with that. Also, the demands stated above seem reasonably well thought out, and even the president, Cristina Fern�ndez de Kirchner, supports the student movement (though they say this is only in words and not in action).

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And I was seriously impressed by the students here. They were serious. This isn’t a party for them. After organizing dinner for the 100 students that ended up staying, they promptly formed committees to deal with various issues throughout the occupation, including ones for cleaning, security, public relations, food, art (creating flyers, etc) and women (to ensure that they were being represented properly) .

Afterward, most students slept on the floor, including me. It wasn’t like, let’s have a slumber party. It was more like, we’re occupying a school. The room where most people  were sleeping was pitch black, so I couldn’t get a photo of that, but I have this one:

I’ll have to research this more, but I’m left with this thought: Reportedly the United States has the best system of higher education in the world, but what does that mean? Most research? Most graduates? Is that how we should measure it? What are we learning?

My thoughts are also only formulated from my experience at Penn State. I’m now taking classes at both the UBA, incredibly left, and the Universidad de Empresiarales y Sociales (UCES), which is center-right. I’ll be comparing them throughout the semester.

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Location: Avenida Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Naw, that’s not spicy, part 1

Estefan�a invited me to her house several days ago. I mentioned this, but I didn’t mention anything about the food.

Dinner was beautiful. Potatoes that were cooked with real spices. Chicken that was cooked with real love. Food that caused sensation when it made contact with my tongue.

Lots of food in Argentina has no taste. And while I appreciate the incredible meat they have here, dinners of meat and mashed potatoes/french fries — constantly — can only go so far.

I’ve read tourist guides and blogs that say the food in Argentina is amazing. I’d say in response: You’ve only been here a week or two. Try staying longer. Your opinion will change.

I never appreciated the food culture of the United States, but it’s probably among the best in the world — it’s pretty much comprised of everything. In my small hometown alone, I can get Chinese, sushi, Mediterranean, Portuguese and Peruvian cuisine, not to mention several others. And at restaurants everywhere you’re guaranteed a menu with more than, you know, steak and fries.

I’m not alone on this. I met an Australian couple, here for several months, and they have the same opinion. No variety. No vegetables. Please, no more potatoes.

It is possible to eat well here. You just have to look. I found a Peruvian restaurant, Miliagritos, that serves a monster plate of food for 15 pesos, or about four dollars, and it’s delicious. We’re talking soup, meat, rice, potatoes, specialty hot sauce and a drink. Can’t beat it.

But when my host mom warns me against using too much mustard on my food — mustard! — because of how “spicy” it is… I mean, it’s mustard. Seriously. Mustard.

Clearly not every family or restaurant in the city has the same attitude toward flavor, as evidenced by my visit to Estefan�a’s. But I have met porte�os who’re pretty disillusioned with their own cuisine.

More on this later,


Location: avenida de pueyrredon, buenos aires, argentina

Yankeelandia

I went to a porte�a friend’s house for dinner the other night. We’ll call her Estefan�a. (People from Buenos Aires are called “porte�os.” They’re called this because Buenos Aires is a port.)

Anyway. Estefan�a loves watching Independence Day and 2012. You know, the kind of movie she plays in the background while she does other things. The same way I watch A Christmas Story at least three times every year because of the TBS 24-hour marathon, she watches those two flicks.

She says that porte�os call those big blockbusters “movies from Yankeelandia.” Yankees is what they often call Americans. And those action fantasies take place in Yankeeland, where things blow up, etc.

It’s funny how much people don’t consider the U.S. here. They do in terms of capitalism and imperialism, at least the people I’ve talked to. This means their point of view isn’t very positive. I don’t get that they see us as a shining beacon of hope or whatever, a concept that exists commonly in the American imagination. I say I’m from the U.S. — “Oh, that’s nice” is the response I get.

And this is great. Buenos Aires is the place to be. Immigrants come here to work and find a better life. For them, the U.S. is nowhere on the radar. Maybe to visit. But that’s it. It’s kinda frivolous.

You know, kind of like Yankeelandia.


Location: Avenida Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Garganta del Diablo

Right now I’m in the Mascarpone caf�, one of the only places near my house that’s open on a Sunday with WiFi. I’ll take this opportunity to say that most places in Buenos Aires are closed on Sunday, including most grocery stores, farmacies, printing shops and a lot of restaurants. Most places also don’t open in the morning until 9:00 or 10:00.

That said, scrolling through my pictures of Iguaz� in the comfort of a hot coffeeshop, the whole experience seems a bit unreal. I’m still surprised that places like Iguaz� actually exist, and on top of that, that I have the good fortune of being able to visit such places as a tourist.

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It’s impossible to capture certain things in words. Pictures often don’t suffice either. At one point, I became so disheartened at trying to convey the scale of Iguaz� that I just wanted to put my camera away.

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I don’t want to overhype the falls, but I think it’s impossible to visit them and not feel at least somewhat impressed. It’s like God himself reached down and tore a chunk out of the earth. Niagara Falls really is child’s play in comparison.

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And these pictures are all I have to demonstrate that.

Trails lead all around the park, showing various mini waterfalls and nice views.

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(These little guys, coat�, are as common in the forest there as squirrels are in the States.

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They have sharp claws and can attack you looking for food or entertainment, as they did to me…

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…tearing open a plastic bag with our water bottles.)

There were good photo opps.

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The trails were nice and all, but the highlight of Iguaz� for me was seeing La Garganta del Diablo, or the area right at the summit of the waterfalls.

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By some crazy feat of geology, there’s a dip there that creates this whirlpool-thing right at the edge of the precipice. It’s what I envisioned when I read The Maelstrom by Poe or any fisherman tall tale related to sea monsters.

You get a sense of “big,” as in, “Wow, I’m really small, and if by some off chance I fell into that water, there’s no way I would ever come out alive.”

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It’s like when you watch tornado coverage on TV, or documentary footage of volcanoes, etc. It’s pretty mind-blowing is all, and it’s definitely worth seeing.

After seeing the Garganta, Sylvia (dark hair), Joanna (light hair) and Robert went on a boat ride that rode right into the falls for seemingly no other reason than to get us wet. It was like the Maid of the Mist at Niagara but about 12 times more intense.

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We went on a tour in an Indiana Jones adventure style truck thing through the national park, receiving an ecology lesson. A man from Brazil was another tourist on the truck, and I was confirmed again in my belief that Portuguese is one of the most beautiful languages on the planet.

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I apparently took pictures of some important trees, etc. There was also a nice sunset.

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Location: Avenida Pueyrredon 1200, Buenos Aires, Argentina

On the Border of Three Nations

I could write 20 entries reflecting on my trip to Iguaz�, about anything from the bare-footed Guaran� children selling pan flutes to how infinitesimal I felt when I saw the waterfalls. I spoke late into the night with Spaniards and Peruvians learning slang, danced in a bona fide conga line and spent about 18 hours locked in an overnight bus drinking fantastic coffee.

So much has already happened since then, too (these photos were taken two weeks ago). I can say this with certainty: One semester in Argentina is a ridiculously short amount of time. It’s not going to be enough for me.

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August 13 – 16 was a long weekend because of a memorial day dedicated to Jos� de San Mart�n. This meant a good opportunity to vacation for us foreigners, and a lot of students took the opportunity to travel the 800 miles to Puerto Iguaz�. Three friends and I decided to leave early at 18:00 on Thursday night, foregoing a meal courtesy of IES meant to round off our last week of orientation (we preferred the adventure and romance of skipping out).

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Getting off the bus the following day, I was struck by how quiet everything was in Puerto Iguaz�. At 23 km from the falls, it�s the setting out/resting point for tourists and seemed like a genuinely peaceful, even lazy town/city, which was confirmed when we talked to a taxi driver and learned that there were only two deaths related to assault the previous year.

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A quick note: the taxi drivers in Puerto Iguaz� were very helpful, giving advice on the best ways to traverse the trails around Iguaz� Falls, how to get the best pictures, etc. Some were really talkative and tended to pay more attention to the conversation than the road, which was a little frightening but I think an essential part of the Iguaz� experience.

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Anyway, this taxi driver was an expat from Brazil who still had a heavy accent even though he�d been living in Argentina since he was 12. Apparently Brazil is too dangerous for him. This is when we learned how safe Puerto Iguaz� is, because he compared it to the port city in Brazil, which according to him had hundreds of deaths in comparison. (Iguaz� Falls lies on the border between Argentina and Brazil. People argue as to which side is better.)

Our first night there, we went to the Triple Frontera, or the place where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet at the intersection of the r�os Iguaz� and Paran�.

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We happened to arrive just as evening was coming on. We could see the lights of Paraguay’s La Ciudad del Este and streetlamps on the Brazilian side that seemed so close we could touch them. Maybe that’s an exaggeration, but at that point I felt that I wanted more than anything to just cross the border, keep going and never look back. Right there on the edge, it was like the whole world was open to me. This is a huge planet with a lot to see – I’d mentally understood that but never really felt it until then.

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We remarked to each other more than once that, at that moment, there was no place we�d rather be. Traveling, I realized, is everything that it�s cracked up to be. Seeing new places and meeting new people is as romantic and fulfilling as I�d imagined, and stretching your horizons can even be a spiritual thing if you let it. The world is a pretty cool place after all. I remembered the news reports from after James Cameron�s Avatar came out, those about the people who became depressed because a place as beautiful as Pandora doesn�t exist. Seriously, just open your eyes. It�s all right there in front of you, the best special effects you�ll ever see, and you don�t need funky glasses to see it.

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Getting back to the hostel – which was paradise on earth despite the fact that the food was mediocre and the rooms were freezing at night – I felt I�d never made a better decision than to skip out on the IES dinner. It�s a strange thing, living here in Argentina so entirely conscious of every second you spend and practically every breath you take; you know how impermanent the experience is, and you want to savor every last moment you can because, before long, the dream will be over and it’s back to rural Pennsylvania.

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So those were my thoughts the night before we went to La Garganta del Diablo, literally the Throat of the Devil. And as I write this right, at the IES center on the 12th floor of an office building in the center of Buenos Aires, students are talking about how fast the time is flying. I can�t believe I�ve already been here a month.

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Location: Carlos Pelligrini 1069, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Meeting Argentines

Wow.

As I write this, I�m in an internet locale called a �Locutorio� working on a computer (common in this city as many people don�t have internet at home), listening to Latin music with a half-Reggaeton beat, right across the street from the philosophy building of the University of Buenos Aires.

All of the socialist flyers and propaganda at the university aren�t for show. The students here are genuinely passionate about their beliefs. I just met a student while shopping for books and ended up talking about Obama�s/American imperialist policies, slanted media coverage and differences in political culture between the United States and Argentina.

It�s kind of a beautiful thing. I�m even taking a class here called �An approximation of a marxist analysis of culture, art and ideology.� I don�t think I�ve ever seen a class like it in tht States, where socialism is demonized.

I wish there was some way to capture what it�s like here in Buenos Aires. But it�s impossible. You�d have to write a book describing every little aspect, from way the flyers are presented at the university to the sense that to not be politically involved, as well as conscious and passionate about politics in the world at large, is to be in the minority.

We had an asado (roast, barbecue, meat) at my friend�s house two nights ago on Saturday. He lives with a Bolivian and there were two Argentines there. We spent the night dancing, playing music (singing, guitar, flute and this instrument called the Venezuelan cuatro) and discussing politics and religion on the roof of their house until 4:00 in the morning.

I can�t keep up with the photographs or entries anymore. So much is happening. I still have to post everything from our time in Iguaz�…

It�s like I�m living in a foreign film. I think a few people here could probably attest to the same feeling. There�s so much culture here, whatever that means, that it�s just oozing out my ears. It�s like you take in a deep breath and you taste Argentina with all of its nasty exhaust, dog crap and empanadas at the same time.

Whatever it is that this place has, it�s definitely something else. It�s probably why people like traveling so much. And yeah, I think I�m getting that travel bug.


Location: Puan 475, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Belated Happy Birthday Wishes at an Evangelical Church

NOTE: Still catching up on entries…

Saturday, August 7 — It seems like months ago now, but I went to a youth gathering at Fiorella’s church a while ago. She invited me and having nothing to lose, I figured I’d go.

Before going there, I went to a fair in Recoleta (another barrio of Buenos Aires). It’s where tons of people set up booths to sell their wares, from purses to instruments to wood miniatures to jewelry, and the passerby spend the day shopping or hanging on the lawns chatting with friends, some even playing music.

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There was a drum circle there. The group Taller Percutivo La Descarga (something like that) was banging on a variety of percussive thingamajigs. One man had a flute, and he let me borrow it and join in for two quick songs (not shown, video came out too dark!).

People were walking on tight ropes, sleeping in hammocks, taking naps in the grass – a real Bohemian atmosphere.

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That said, I showed up late to the gathering at the Evangelical Church. When it was practically ending, no less. At that point I was still struggling with public transportation, so I got lost a few times on the way there.

When I finally did arrive, a group of young people welcomed me in a really pleasant way, all hugs and Argentine kiss-greetings, even offering food. Some alternative dudes were playing some kind of rock and roll stuff in the corner, winding down and messing around more like it. I’d apparently missed all the fun activities. Except for one, that is. It involved popping balloons with your feet if desired, but preferably with your butt. This promptly made a mess of confetti all over the floor.

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They also sang Happy Birthday to me. They were singing it for everyone whose birthday had just occurred recently, and I clearly fit the bill. So I was subjected to the Argentine mode of “singing” the tune…haha. See for yourself:

I really do like it here. I haven�t been here long enough to make that call for certain, though.

I hope my opinion of this place doesn�t change.


Location: Avenida Pueyrredon, Buenos Aires, Argentina