Tag Archives: politics

Argentina’s Economy

I have begun to work at a digital media company here in Buenos Aires, not only am I gaining experience and all that I am also being introduced to Argentine culture and politics like never before.

Argentina’s new president, Mauricio Macri was elected last November, he is part of the Cambiemos party, a fairly new political party that is a far cry from Kircherismo. Kirchnerismo, is derived from president Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner and Nestor Kirchner. Nestor served one term as president and then was followed by his wife which served two full terms, together they rules the country for 12 years.. Kirchnerismo, is a left leaning party while Cambiemos is more to the right.

Argentine politics really can’t be described. Currently many of the past politicians that served in Cristina’s government have been accused of massive corruption and embezzlement. One of her close friends, Lazaro Baez, benefitted greatly from government contracts. His size of all of his estates put together are about the size of the province of Buenos Aires.

Argentina recently paid their massive debt and as a result economy is struggling, there have been thousands of dismissals from government jobs and inflation is rampant.

I don’t usually frequent supermarkets but I do feel the inflation when I pay for laundry or my lunch. When I first arrived to BA a load of laundry was 70 pesos or roughly $4.50 now it’s 80 pesos or roughly $5.50. It may not seem like a lot but in the long run it is especially if you wash frequently.

I always think that you if you are a middle-class worker in the United States working on a American-dollar based salary then you’d be doing well in Buenos Aires. Many of the services offered here are priced that way. For example, lunch here depending on where you go of course costs upwards of 100 pesos or about $7. Dinner might be more expensive especially if you’re having drinks. Drinks are usually 70-100 ($5-$7) pesos, of course depending on what you order. Also, water here is not free like in the U.S., most of the time you will get charged the same amount as if you had ordered a soda or juice.

Clothes are very expensive in BA, no fast-fashion prices here. The clothes and shoes are expensive and are usually bad quality. I advice you to bring what is necessary taking into account that you might not want to buy any clothes or shoes here. Another issue in the retail business are the sizes, clothes here run small and stores only carry certain numbers. This has to do with the European and American influence on Argentine fashion. Argentina has a huge epidemic of eating disorders only second to Japan.

 

 

Culture shock: conquered ✓

Can you believe it is the week before finals? I have a few exams next week, and then I have my final in the local university on July 1. So I am leaving in two weeks on July 2. I have really enjoyed myself in Buenos Aires. I feel like my horizons have truly broadened studying liberal arts, improving my Spanish,making new friends, and living in an entirely different culture. When I arrived here months ago, I encountered a lot of differences in culture to which I have learned to adapt. I can truly say that I have conquered those culture shocks.

Greeting Culture

When I first arrived in Colombia, I went to a party. I entered and when I was introduced to everyone, I offered my hand, then quickly withdrew it as everyone leaned in to kiss my cheek. So when I arrived at my homestay in Argentina, I was prepared and boldly greeted everyone with a kiss on the cheek. When my friends and I go our separate ways, we all kiss each other on the cheek and say “chau”! It now feels unnaturally cold-hearted to greet or thank someone with a handshake.

Food Culture

While walking to class in the morning, I see waiters running through the streets carrying metal trays with coffee. This practice is the Argentine version of “to go”. A Starbucks opened up on the corner of my street, and my host dad complains about how everyone carries “to go” cups from there. He can’t understand how someone could possibly enjoy coffee from a “to go” cup on the run to the office. I used to bring my computer to cafés and I always felt that I was ruining everyone else’s relaxed vibe at the café. So now when I go for my café con leche, I maybe bring a book or my knitting, but more often I just sit, people watch, and enjoy the taste of well made cup of coffee.

Milanesa sandwich

Milanesa sandwich

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another challenge for me with Argentine food culture was their obsession with meat and misconception of what vegetables actually are. I pretty much have meat every day in this country, although I have been a vegetarian for the past five years. Along with the meat that I eat everyday, there is usually potatoes and bread, maybe a salad once in a while. Potatoes serve as a vegetable here, and I really miss things like steamed broccoli or But I wanted to share dinner with my host family every night and enjoy what is particular to their culture. So I have certainly enjoyed dinners with my host family, but I honestly cannot wait to go back to my plant-based diet when I get back to the US.

Transportation Culture

I have described the colectivo (bus) culture in another blog post earlier in the semester, but there are a few more things I have noticed during the past few months. A few new bus stop signs have been put up. The stop where I catch the bus to go to my university used to be completely unmarked. I learned to look for the particular bus line I want to take while I walk to the general area of the stop so I know exactly where to stand. But now there is a nice, clear sign that displays 111 with the colors of the line where I hop on the green and yellow bus. However, there are still no signs for the 106 or the 140, and none of these bus stop signs include schedules. So I have adapted to being patient finding a bus stop and making sure to have a plan B if I can´t find it or the bus does not show.

Although the bus can be unpredictable sometimes, everyone (unless they are heading to a Boca Juniors soccer game) is polite and respectful. Whenever a mother, child, or elderly person hops on the bus, there is always a person to jump from there seat and graciously offer it to them. I hear a woman thank a man for giving up his seat, and he responds, saying “no, por favor, it is your right.” While waiting at the bus stop, men are also always sure to let women on the bus first.

Political Culture

Another reason for the uncertainty of the bus is Argentina’s political culture. If you decide to visit the Plaza de Mayo, where the offices of President Cristina are, it would be rare to not encounter some kind of political protest. These protests often cause the streets to be barricaded and closed.

Plaza de Mayo with the Casa Rosada in the background

Plaza de Mayo with the Casa Rosada in the background

When my mom visited me, there were hundreds of people protesting for the right of self-cultivation of marijuana. The police barricaded the streets and stood by while the people set up their posters and light up their joints. Other days when I go to the plaza, there are people fighting for protection of the environment. A few weeks ago, there was an enormous protest against domestic violence. Almost every Argentine I know went. Protests where people, whether young or old, fill up the street and yell obscenities to their opposition are quite common in Argentina and a huge part of their political process.

Protest in the plaza

Protest in the plaza

Unions, and their strikes, also have a huge role in Argentine politics. They will also participate in protests in political areas of the city when they strike. Since my arrival in Buenos Aires, I have experienced two general strikes. This may not sound like a big deal, but during these strikes, all forms of public transportation were stopped. In the last strike, transportation was stopped across the country: there were no trains, no subways, no buses functioning in all of Argentina. Not one plane flew into the Ezeiza International Airport, nor the domestic airport. These general strikes are normally not so common, but it is an election year. So the stakes are higher and everyone is trying to publicize their stance.

Economic Culture

Many of the strikes while I have been here have been about raises in salary. The last strike also was fighting for a raise, but focused more on the problem of inflation. They see this as the root of the economic problems of workers because the pesos they receive are worth less and less.

In the grocery store or in the mall, they offer to everyone to pay installments. I buy ham, cheese, and bread for sandwiches and the cashier asks me if I only want one installment on my credit card. Some clothing stores advertise offers of 12 installments over an entire year. Because of the economic uncertainty, Argentines are more likely to spend their money right in the moment because of inflation.

During the four months I have been here, I have seen everything go up in price by about ten percent. The scone at the tea house, the cost of doing my laundry at the laundromat, a salami sandwich at Al Sandwich: all up ten percent.

Since the default of 2001, Argentina has experienced significant inflation, and my peers in my university class have grown up with it. They ask me how much a dollar is worth in two years, and I don’t know the answer.

Adapting

These culture experiences are very different from my daily life in the United States. At times, confronting these differences proved difficult, especially trying to navigate them by communicating in my second language. Even more so, learning to be more laidback with uncertainty and unpredictability was hard with my type A personality. But over the past few months, I have learned the importance of a warm greeting, having a second plan, adapting to changes of plans, and enjoying a single moment without distraction or multitasking.

Drinking mate and relaxing at an estancia

Drinking mate and relaxing at an estancia

Una Locura: the Argentine Classroom

Earlier in the semester, I decided to take a course at one of the local universities in Buenos Aires. I decided to take a class at the Pontifica Universidad Católica de Argentina (la UCA) because they offered courses in history.  La UCA is a private university in Buenos Aires, as opposed to the University of Buenos Aires, which is free to Argentines, as well as foreigners. I didn’t know what to expect on registration day for international students, and certainly nothing could have prepared me for what ensued.

When I arrived, I was given a course catalogue with course descriptions. For a while, I looked through the book and found a few courses that interested me. Then I went to an area where the schedule of courses was posted on paper. Squeezing past other international students, I tried to squint at the times and see which courses fit in with the rest of my schedule. Eventually, I found a course, Argentine History of the Twentieth Century, that fit in my schedule, wrote it down on paper, and signed. I then handed in my registration form to be placed in a manila envelope and thought, well, I hope there is a spot in the class. After this experience, I vowed never to complain about scheduling online and receiving immediate confirmation at Penn State.

When I arrived to my first day of class, I was nervous and hoped my registration had gone through. My stomach turned and I worried what expectations the teacher would have. While we waited, I made an Argentine gesture of being scared: palm facing upward, opening and closing my fingers. The professor finally arrived a half hour late and class began. She was very curious about all of the foreigners in my class and had all of us introduce ourselves. Her welcoming spirit and her clear speaking calmed my nerves about the class.

Two professors teach the class, and both always try to include comparisons with the US. My first professor is very passionate, loves jokes and always will start a hearty debate during class. Sometimes, these debates become a little overwhelming with Argentine students raising their voices to explain their opinions, but it is a great way to challenge my Spanish skills. This year is an election year in Argentina, so everyone is buzzing about politics: Macri, Massa, PRO divided, Peronists also divided. Everyone  in the class expresses their opinions about the death of Nissman, the lawyer investigating the 1994 bombing of a synagogue and found dead in his bathroom.During these conversations, I am very pleased when I understand references to or jokes about Argentine politics.

After a month of going to the class, the subject is absolutely fascinating. As my professor said the first day of class, Argentine history fascinates foreigners but is painful for Argentines. This has proved true. I do not know that much about Argentine history, so for me everything in the course is new and exciting. Sometimes being unfamiliar with the content of the course makes it more difficult, but it’s all part of the challenge of taking a course at the local university. But for the Argentines in the class, learning about the development of their country makes them question why their country is in the situation it is today.

Some of them seem either ambivalent or extremely disappointed with politics. Many say they want to go to the States because they believe America has no significant problems. One student carried a bag with an American flag design on it, and my professor questioned it and asked if the students had any sense of national identity or pride. The students rolled their eyes.  Granted, my teacher’s reaction is a little exaggerated; plenty of Americans wear clothes with British flags too, but the conversation is indicative of the frustration of some Argentines. The students in la UCA are mainly from the upper middle or upper class families. They can afford to pay for higher education when it is offered for free by the state, so I assume their families are fairly successful.  So considering their situation, it surprises me that they feel so disenchanted with their country.

However, I do not mean to say that students here are entirely disenchanted. My house mate goes to the public University of Buenos Aires, and her classes are constantly interrupted by organizations trying to promote social and political issues. But to me it is fascinating to compare these two experiences in very different universities of Buenos Aires.

 

 


Location: Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1300 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Carambas!

No comprendo…

I was surprised that Spanish-speaking people actually say this phrase that Americans sometimes use. Beyond this, I have learned that no Spanish class could have prepared me for only conversing in Spanish during my trip to Colombia. My first overwhelming language experience was at a party when I first arrived. Thinking they were talking about kittens, I answered a question, but apparently they were asking about two little girls. Gratefully, my hosts enforce Spanish so I can improve, but they also speak English in case I have no idea what they are talking about. We’ll see if this remains true of my hosts in Argentina. But nevertheless, I feel that I am becoming more comfortable surrounded by Spanish. My conjugation of verbs is still rusty but is improving. And words long forgotten (like cucumber) are coming back to me.

Despite my second grade Spanish, the language and its cultural idiosyncrasies enrich my own experience of Bogotá. I was offered a bocadillo. My mind scrambled to translate. Boca? Mouth? What? But it turned out to be a common Colombian dessert of a slice of candied guava with a slice of local cheese on top. Sounds horrible, but in all honesty,  I’d give up ice cream forever and replace it with this dessert.

 

The opposite of expectations

Walking through a Spanish Franciscan church that softens the cries of street vendors, I have arrived in an entirely new place. Compared to my austere Protestant church at home, I am awed by the ornate decoration- silver, gold, carved wood- of the church. I steps echo and I try not to disturb the Colombians kneeling and praying at midday. Religion permeates this country’s culture, but not as I expected. Many people struggle with Catholicism despite its seemingly pervasive nature in South America.

Outside of the churches, the streets are lined with military personnel. Dressed in camouflage and carrying huge guns, their presence makes me want to shriek and run. But the more I experience the city, I question what is this impending threat. As it turns out, Colombia experienced a bombing about a decade ago, and this event initiated the enormous increase in security. It seems radical at first, but is the increased security at my high school in response to Newtown just as ridiculous? What is so different between soldiers guarding Colombian schools and American schools continually being locked down from the outside world? Whether it be ridiculous, radical or rational, our reaction to violence is to arm and secure schools, movie theaters, and airports.

Soldiers by the Plaza de Bolívar

Soldiers by the Plaza de Bolívar

 

So far, I am loving this experience and cannot wait to learn more. ¡Hasta luego!


Location: Calle 73 Bogotá Colombia