Author Archives: emm5186

Prima settimana in Roma

After the last, very verbose post on Oslo, I thought I’d post a brief photo-essay of my first impressions of Rome:

Carabinieri Gatta.jpgWatchful eye

Despite the appearance, the Carabinieri, or military police, are not guarding our architecture studio (behind the rolling metal door) – President Silvio Berlusconi’s condo is next door.

fiat.jpgMatchbox car?
The tiny and ubiquitous Fiat 500 – these cars are seen everywhere you go in Rome, and manage to make the Mini look spacious. Fiats are perfect cars for Romans – they’re cheap, can be parked anywhere, and easily navigate narrow, ancient streets.

pantheon oculus.jpg

Sunroof
The rotunda of the Pantheon, the world’s larges non-reinforced concrete dome, unmatched since 126 AD. The oculus (circular opening) alone is over 25 feet in diameter.

Augustus.jpg
Isn’t it rude to point?
Not if you’re the emperor. A statue of Caesar Augustus along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, installed under Mussolini in the 1930s.

tutti frutti.jpgTutti Frutti
Shopping for produce at Campo de’ Fiori (the field of flowers), one of the largest public markets in Rome. Chain supermarkets are competing with the traditional markets, but it seems that most Romans still prefer farm-fresh fruit and vegetables from their familiar greengrocer.

first dinner.jpgRome sweet Rome
Enjoying our first real home-cooked Italian meal (and a bit of vino)!

Oceanus Trevi.jpgSalty Seagod
The statue of the titan Oceanus, towering over the Trevi Fountain and looking like a boss.

Roma invader.jpgIt(alien) Invaders
These ‘foreigners’ love Rome too!

colosseum arches.jpgBut can it seat me and 110,000 of my best friends?

I felt obligated to post the stereotypical Rome tourist photo of the Colosseum, but it didn’t seem so colossal when compared to Beaver Stadium…
Until later, Ciao!

Location: Piazza della Rotonda, Rome, Italy

Northern Europe, pt. 1: Oslo on one change of clothes

Sorry for the long break from writing…classwork became a bit of an obstacle to blogging during the past two weeks. Anyway, I’m finally getting to posting about Oslo, and well as blogging about some things in Roma:

My travels began with the best Christmas present ever, a 10-day tour through Norway, Finland, and Switzerland with two of my compadres and fellow architecture students, George and Matt.  We flew out of Philly on December 27, barely dodging the blizzard that canceled flights throughout the east coast during Christmas weekend.  After enduring delays, a very bumpy trip over the North Sea, and a sprint through Charles de Gaulle Airport to catch our connecting flight, we arrived in Oslo…without our checked luggage.  But with the promise of our belongings’ expeditious return, we ventured into the Oslo winter.

Conveniently, our hostel was located a block from the central rail station, so we took a high-speed bullet train from the airport to the Sentrum.  Since we hadn’t had a real meal in over a day, we went in search of some hearty Norwegian fare.  George, Matt and I settled on Kaffistova – a bit like a Scandinavian Panera Bread – and enjoyed a traditional Christmastime meal of meatballs, sausage, boiled potatoes, and sauerkraut.  Unfortunately, we discovered that despite that the Norwegian currency, the krona, is worth 6 cents apiece, prices in Norway are hyperinflated, and each of our ‘modest’ meals cost almost $30.  However, unlike airline food, it was filling and delicious!

kaffistova.jpgBefore crashing for the night, we looked around downtown Oslo for a bit.  We saw the antique Freia sign advertising a Norwegian candy bar; Norway’s parliament, the Stortinget; and the Norwegian royal palace.  Similar to Great Britain and other constitutional monarchies, Norway has a king, Harald V. Although he mainly serves as a ceremonial figurehead, the king is the royal patron of the Norwegian Lutheran Church and the Supreme Commander of the Norwegian military.

Freia sign.jpg

Stortinget panorama small.jpg
Norwegian palace.jpgWe awoke the next day to the disappointing news that our bags still hadn’t been delivered to the hostel, meaning we still didn’t have any fresh clothes.  We did our best to make ourselves appear clean, then went out to see the Vikingskiphuset (Viking ship museum).  The museum houses 3 Viking burial ships dating to the 9th Century, which were recovered from the seafloor of the Oslofjord.  Viking cheiftans, queens, and respected warriors were laid to rest in elaborately carved battleships, surrounded by earthly goods that could be used in Valhalla.  These ships were then sunk to the bottom of the sea with massive millstones.  The most famous ship on display is the nearly-complete Oseberg ship:

Oseberg ship.jpgAfter the Viking ship museum, we visited the neighboring Norwegian Folk Museum, which features an architectural park with a collection of traditional Norwegian houses, businesses, and churches.  It was a bit like visiting Colonial Williamsburg, only with buildings from throughout Norway’s history instead of a single time period.  I really enjoyed seeing the museum’s Stavkirke, because very few of these wooden churches have survived to the present day, and most are in rural areas of the country that we wouldn’t be visiting. 

Stavkirche.jpg

That night, we had dinner at a traditional seafood restaurant, Dovrehallen, at the recommendation of the hostel proprietor – appropriate, given Oslo’s role as a fishing hub.  Apparently, we blended in pretty well with the locals; our waiter began explaining the night’s specials to us in rapid-fire Norwegian, until we explained that we weren’t fluent, and he sheepishly repeated himself in flawless English (most Norwegians can speak at least a little).  After dinner, we visited Oslo City Hall, the site of the annual Nobel Peace Prize ceremony:

Oslo City Hall.jpgWe began our final day in Oslo with a visit to Akershus Castle, the medieval stronghold of Norway’s kings, still wondering if we would ever see our luggage again.  The fortress is still considered one of the king’s official residences, and many members of the Norwegian royal family are buried in the castle’s chapel.  The fortress was key to Norway’s military resistance to Nazi occupation during WWII; militiamen firing from the castle sank a German U-boat in the Oslofjord before it could reach the city’s harbor.
 
Akershus guardhouse.jpgOur final stop in Oslo was the Norwegian National Opera, designed by Oslo architects Snohetta (being architecture students, we had hoped to visit Snohetta’s offices, but had to cancel those plans due to our unkempt appearance).  The opera house is the newest and most instantly recognizable landmark in Oslo, a giant iceberg of white marble and glass, rising from the harbor shore.  The building opened in 2007 to a great deal of critical praise; it seamlessly blends modernism with unique Scandinavian craftsmanship and imagery, and boasts one of the most technically-advanced performance halls in Europe.  It also provided the Opera with a permanent home for the first time in its history.  The building’s most notable feature is its sloping roof, which can be climbed by the public.  The afternoon that we toured the opera house, the roof was filled with visitors seeking views of the Oslofjord, or maybe just a good sledding hill in the city:

Norwegian Opera.jpgAfter visiting the opera house, we went back to the hostel to grab our carry-on bags, certain that we wouldn’t be seeing the rest of our luggage until we arrived in Helsinki.  But, sure enough, we returned to find that the baggage handlers had left our stuff on the hostel doorstep, and just in the nick of time.  With that, we were off to Finland…


Location: Sentrum, Oslo, Norway

Ciao da Roma!

Buongiorno and welcome to my GeoBlog! My name is Evan Murphy, and I am fourth-year architecture student from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. I am studying at Penn State’s architecture program with the Pantheon Institute in Rome during the Spring 2011 semester. I look forward to sharing my experiences of Italian history and culture in the upcoming months through my photography, field sketches, video, and written entries. I will also be blogging from various other European locales as my class schedule permits. As you might have guessed, I’m very interested in architecture, art, and history. However, I’m also very excited to blog about topics such as food, festivals, and daily Italian/European life.

evan janiculum.jpgabove: Roma (and myself) from atop Janiculum Hill – a balmy 55 degrees in January!

I arrived in Rome a little over a week ago, and have been working through some technical roadblocks with the internet connection. I’m living in an 11th Century former monastery in Trastevere, across the Tiber from center-city Rome (hence the bad wifi).  Trastevere is a middle-class neighborhood, with a good mix of permanent residents and international exchange students living here. It is much quieter and less “touristy” than many other parts of Rome, as it pretty far from most of the well-known sites in Rome. Trastevere is full of narrow cobblestone streets lined with centuries-old apartment buildings and too many old churches, family grocers, and fantastic restaurants to count. Anything you could need while living here for a semester is within walking distance. I’m feeling very much at home already!

Before posting on my first week in Rome, I’ll be catching up with some posts on a trip I made with two friends through Norway, Finland, and Switzerland on our way to Italy. Until my post on the Pantheon, Roman markets, and Hadrian’s Villa, here’s a pic of our courtyard, from the terrace outside our apartments – the largest private garden in Rome (below). Ciao!

s maria in cap courtyard.jpg


Location: Trastevere, Rome, Italy