“It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in – your in. There’s no getting out”

That’s the great surfer Kelly Slater’s quote on surfing . . . and oh does it hold true.

There is nothing more exhilarating or addicting than standing on a surfboard for the first time in your life. 

But I guess I’ll start with the beginning of the trip.  We left Sydney on Friday night and had a nice seven hour trip in a cramped van with 20 other people.  Once we got to the camp, we got housing which made me miss my Freshman dorm in Pollock.  It was not looking good and when we woke up and got a breakfast which was also something to be desired I began to worry that the trip was going to be a waste.

However, once we went to a beautiful secluded beach and were taught to surf the weekend took a complete 180.  From the time I first fell off my board trying to catch a wave I was hooked.  It took numerous attempts and help from many of the instructors, but I finally stood up on the board and began to get ahold of surfing!

Now I have to try to find a cheap beginner’s surfboard around Coogee and continue to do something which I instantly full in love with!  Also, I need to watch the American classic, “Point Break” on repeat for weeks on end.

Location: Crescent Head, Australia