Conspicuously absent from the streets of Berlin is the country’s famous tri-color flag. One could easily wander through downtown without seeing a single red, black, and gold banner. Even among the city’s most prized landmarks there exists a remarkably subdued sense of pride. In this sense, Berlin could not be more different from its American counterpart. With American flags on virtually every street corner and monuments commemorating the greatest moments in the country’s relatively brief history, Washington, D.C. is a bastion of patriotism and makes no effort to disguise its pride. For most Americans, patriotism comes easily and constitutes an important element of national identity.
In Berlin, however, pride carries a very different–and often negative–connotation. National pride of the sort Americans so often exhibit would almost certainly ostracize anyone so bold as to declare himself a patriot. In 2001, Germany erupted following two very public, very contentious statements made by prominent politicians. One, Cornelia Schmalz-Jacobsen, was quoted as saying, “Not even over my dead body could I say that I am proud to be a German. I even have great difficulty singing the national anthem.” Perhaps even more explosive was then-President Johannes Rau’s assertion that he was not ‘proud’ to be German.
The country’s old guard tended to agree with these condemnations of pride, believing the country was responsible for too much evil in the world to ever again dream of being a proud people. Others argued Germany had become a force for good in the world and that its strong record of environmental protection, technological advancement, and human rights advocacy had distanced the country enough from its checkered past to assess the viability of national pride.
Perhaps it is this lingering reluctance to embrace national pride that has led to the formation of remarkably strong regional identities. In Berlin, for example, it would be equally as treasonous to sport an FC Munich jersey as it would be to drink a Munich-made beer when local beers are available. This “buy local” attitude permeates life here in Berlin. Everywhere are bakeries, chocolate shops, restaurants, bicycle stores, and groceries that have no national presence. Many buy local ingredients, use local labor, and sell only locally. This model, in many ways considered antiquated in the United States, thrives in Berlin. While national chains such as Rossman, ReWe, Volkswagen, and others have strong presences in the city, the ease with which one can find regional and local chains is astounding.
For multinational corporations looking to enter this market, this preference for local items must be a vexing one. To be sure, the likes of Starbucks and McDonald’s have done well in Germany if the omnipresent lines of people waiting outside are any indication of success. Coca-Cola can be bought almost everywhere, and New York Yankees baseball hats can be found in most trendy clothing stores. But one still cannot help but feel these retailers are here more for American tourists and curious locals than for the average Berliner. To the extent that the city’s inhabitants continue to buy local, small-scale businesses will remain a mainstay in the local economy. This prospect seems especially realistic given the continued inability of Germans to reconcile modern national pride and past atrocities.
Location: Berlin - Mitte District
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Ian
You have some very interesting observations. I felt the same thing when I was in Germany last year. Your blogs are very engaging.